kallista perunaa

As I've mentioned before, Finland is a good place to eat potatoes. They are ubiquitous and excellent. Even the boiled potatoes that come with the lunches at Dipoli are fine; those in other restaurants are even better; and the lapin puikula variety is one of only four Finnish products that the European Union has granted a protected appellation (see note below). This means that like most of Europe's other famous products, such as Camembert de Normandie, prosciutto di Parma, and lentilles de Puy, the lapin puikula is recognized as a food product that has special qualities deriving from the place where it is produced. (The other Finnish products with protected appellations are sahti beer, karjalanpiirakkaa pastries, and kalakukko fish bread.)

So when I found some "varhaisperuna" (early potatoes) in the store, I was intrigued. At 29,90 €/kg (equivalent to $18.55 per pound) these were certainly the most expensive potatoes I've ever seen. I bought a plastic tub containing six very firm plum-sized yellow potatoes and a few sprigs of dill. Last night I boiled them in some water (with the dill and some salt) and ate them with a little butter. They certainly were delicious - quite flavorful and with a smooth, even texture. They probably were the best potatoes I've ever eaten (although I've never had Joël Robuchon's signature purée). However, the lapin puikula potatoes I bought last month were very nearly as good...and about one-tenth the price.


NOTE: The United States unfortunately does not recognize the EU system of food appellations. This is not so much because of different food cultures but rather because the American legal system favors commodity production over consumer protection. Big business wants you to keep buying "Champagne" made in California rather than Champagne, tasteless "Parmesan" from Wisconsin rather than Parma, and equally tasteless "Brie" from some domestic factory rather than from a farm in Brie. (Because of the absurd American cheese laws - passed at the behest of Kraft Foods - it's illegal to import true Brie de Meaux and Brie de Melun, at least not one that's young enough to eat. The "Brie" found in the US is nothing like the real thing.)