Viron omakotitalo

My Finnish student resident permit expired on the 31st of August. According to the Finnish border guard, I had to leave the Schengen zone no later than that day, but I could reenter any time thereafter and be considered a tourist. Fortunately, Estonia has not fully implemented the Schengen Convention, and thus by spending one night in Tallinn I could come back to Finland and stay for up to three additional months.

The first time I visited Tallinn I was only able to see the medieval center of the city and the open-air museum on its western outskirts. On this trip I had more time and was able to wander through some of the other quarters. Most of the buildings predate the era of Soviet control (which began during World War II and lasted until 1991). Most common is the vernacular wood type that is characterized by having its long side parallel to the street, a gabled dormer, and the entrance approximately in the center of a symmetrical facade. (It reminds me of an old American railway caboose.) It is almost invariably painted brown, yellow, red, or light green.
This example is typical in its proportions but small in scale; most buildings of this type are two to three stories high. When set adjacent to each other they are often separated by masonry fire walls.

The simplicity of the building is frequently counterpointed by elaborate doors, door handles, and awnings.

Newer buildings are often similar in form and color, if not always in materials and detailing, and thus maintain a cohesive street rhythm.
Like the New England saltbox, the Tallinn wood building can be enlarged incrementally.
It can also be articulated to correspond to site conditions. Here is an example from a corner where two streets meet diagonally.
On the opposite corner is this modern interpretation. Although heavy-handed, it does a fine job of respecting the streetscape. The eyebrow dormers are not common, but are found on some of the historical precedents.
For dinner I ate at the medieval-themed restaurant in the center of town. Despite its kitsch, the food was quite good. I had game sausages with horseradish cream, a variety of fruit and vegetable compotes, and some delicious herb-flavored beer.

(posted 21 September)